Car won't start: causes and what to do
By Altay Hasanli, auto electrician
Short answer
The most common cause is a weak or flat battery. If nothing happens when you turn the key, or you hear clicking, the battery, terminals and starter need checking. If the starter cranks but the engine won't run, the cause is fuel, ignition, sensors or the immobiliser. A computer diagnostic pinpoints it in 15–30 minutes.
The most common causes
- 1
Weak or flat battery
The starter turns slowly, dashboard lights dim, or you hear rapid clicking. It's more common in cold weather and after the car has sat for a while. The battery's voltage and its capacity under load are tested.
- 2
Starter motor or relay
One click when you turn the key, but the engine doesn't turn over while the lights stay bright. The solenoid, brushes, relay or main cable may be at fault.
- 3
Terminals, ground or wiring
Corroded terminals, a poor ground connection or a damaged power cable keep current from reaching the starter. The car then starts on some days and not on others.
- 4
Fuel, ignition, sensors or immobiliser
The starter cranks normally but the engine won't catch: the fuel pump, plugs and ignition, the crankshaft sensor or an immobiliser that doesn't recognise the key can be behind it. This needs a computer diagnostic.
Fix: Computer diagnostics
What you can check yourself
- Turn the key and watch the dashboard lights: if they dim, the battery is weak.
- Listen to the starter: a single click, rapid clicking, slow or normal cranking each point to a different cause.
- Check that the battery terminals are tight and free of white-green corrosion.
- See whether the immobiliser light (a key or padlock symbol) is flashing.
- Check the fuel level: the gauge can be wrong too.
When to stop driving
- Don't crank for more than 10 seconds at a time: you can damage the starter and battery.
- If you smell burning, see smoke or feel hot wires, stop trying to start the car and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Before jump-starting from another car, double-check the polarity (+/−): a mistake can destroy control units.
How we find the cause
- 1We measure the battery's voltage and its capacity under load.
- 2We check the starter's current draw and the voltage drop in the power circuit.
- 3We read fault codes, immobiliser status and live sensor data with a scan tool.
- 4If needed, we analyse the crankshaft and camshaft sensor signals with an oscilloscope.
This guide is general information: one symptom can have several causes, and only a diagnostic shows the exact one.
Services and prices
Computer diagnostics
from 20 AZNCar diagnostics: fault codes and sensors
Wiring and electrical repair
from 10 AZNShort circuits, sensors and control units
Alternator and starter repair
from 60 AZNBattery and charging system check
Battery test, replacement and registration
from 10 AZNLoad test, parasitic drain, replacement and BMS registration
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a tow truck if the car won't start?
Not always. If the battery is the cause, a jump-start often gets you here on your own. If you're unsure, call first: we'll tell you what to do based on the symptoms.
The battery is new — what else could it be?
A car can fail to start even with a new battery: terminals, the ground cable, the starter, an alternator that isn't charging or a hidden current drain can all flatten it. Diagnostics finds which.
How long does diagnostics take and what does it cost?
Computer diagnostics starts at 20 AZN and usually takes 15–30 minutes. Once the cause is found, we agree the repair price with you upfront.
Other problems
- Battery keeps dying
The battery goes flat overnight or after a few days parked
- Check Engine light is on
The engine warning light is on or flashing
- Alternator not charging
Battery light on while driving, lights dimming
- Engine shaking or losing power
Shaking at idle, hesitation and loss of power when accelerating
- Electrical faults
Lights, windows or dashboard not working, fuses blowing
- Fuel consumption is up
The tank empties faster than usual with the same driving
- Engine stalls by itself
The engine cuts out while driving, at a stop or right after starting